Eric Rinckhout lives in Antwerp, Belgium, at the crossroads of Europe. He is a journalist and art critic for such publications as Knack and Collect Magazine. For more than 40 years Eric has travelled widely across the South of France, mainly following in the footsteps of the brilliant artists who lived and worked there.
The South of France conjures up images of the sea, the sun, beaches, palm trees, tasty food and joie de vivre. But there is so much more to take in: the South of France is an art lover’s paradise, rivalling Paris when it comes to art and culture. Since 1880, countless artists have been drawn to the dazzling light and vivid colours of the South, such as Van Gogh, Cézanne, Matisse, Dora Maar and Picasso.
"That’s a tough question to answer because Le Midi has so much to offer, from Collioure and Toulouse to Nice and Menton. But I’d probably spend it in the elegant city of Aix-en-Provence, starting my day with a coffee and a croissant in one of the bars on the Rotonde with its imposing fountain.
"The South of France conjures up images of the sea, the sun, beaches, palm trees, tasty food and joie de vivre. But there is so much more to take in."
Afterwards, I’d stroll down the city’s main boulevard, the majestic Cours Mirabeau, to the Musée Granet. It has an interesting art collection with ten works by Paul Cézanne, the city’s most famous painter. The 20th-century collection of Jean and Suzanne Planque is on permanent display in the Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs just around the corner. The paintings of Cézanne, Bonnard, Picasso and De Staël are beautifully presented in this 17th-century chapel.
JC Carbonne - La Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs
Time for lunch then in the stylish garden of Hôtel Caumont. This 18th-century city palace has been turned into an arts centre that hosts excellent exhibitions with work by William Turner or Marc Chagall. Next up, a short walk up the hill to Cézanne’s studio, as he left it at his death in 1906. Another 10-minute-walk takes me to the Terrain des Peintres, boasting stunning views of the Mont Sainte-Victoire, the mountain that overlooks Aix. You can also see copies of nine of Cézanne’s paintings at this specially designed vantage point.
Finally, it’s back to the old city centre, which is mostly pedestrianised, for a nice dinner on one of the many ‘terrasses’ that line its streets. Rue des Tanneurs has several good options.